C O V E R S T O R Y
YOGItimes magazine for the modern yogi
photograpy by Ateeka
A sense of warmth, welcome and safety from the beautiful Balinese residents is evident, even after the devastating 2002 bombing in the tourist town of Kuta, Bali. Mindful tourists are more welcome than ever, and by visiting Bali on a yoga retreat, visitors can positively assist the island in rebuilding its economy and reputation for safe, serene, healthy holidays. The weather is tropical and warm, with the dry season between July and January. However, even in the rainy season, Bali is a delightful adventure. Between yoga practices, there is plenty to do, or sometimes, delightfully, nothing to do.
Home-stays and simple bungalows make an intimate base for the traveling yogi. Most are family-run establishments with clean, simple rooms including fan, hot water and breakfast. Higher-end accommodations in hotels and resorts are also widely available, and may offer daily yoga classes with proficient teachers. Ubud, an artist's paradise amongst the rice paddies and the Monkey Forest is home to many fine yoga studio and teachers. Mornings arrive with the faint dreamy sounds of temple drums spiked with the alarm-clock calls of enthusiastic roosters. The warm Balinese sun peeks through the trees between six and seven in the morning, and invites the yogi to pay homage to the sun with a morning practice.
BaliSpirit Yoga Studio on Jalan Hanoman offers morning vinyasa classes daily, and some afternoon classes as well. This fine studio is on the top floor of a Balinese family compound, and is efficiently run by Meghan Pappenheim. Meghan, her Balinese husband Kadek and new baby Bella have created a very special yoga community in Bali, helping to connect the various classes and teachers island-wide through her website balispirit.com. This informative site lists current information about ongoing classes, special retreats and workshops, as well as yogi-friendly accommodation, tours and holistic services. Also in Ubud are open-air classes at the beautiful Indus restaurant, at the exquisite Ibah resort and at Ubud Sari Health Resort.
Bali always seems to attract yoga teachers from around the world, who offer residential retreats throughout Bali year round. Teachers rotate between studios, and these guest teachers are delighted to share their unique styles and wisdom as they holiday in Bali. In the beach town of Seminyak, yogis will delight in the classes of certified Iyengar teacher, Olop Arpipi. Originally from Java, he has been living and practicing in Bali for almost fifteen years. He has a warm heart and beautiful spirit which he shares most humbly with everyone who comes to practice in his beautiful studio. Or, for another alternative, you might try taking a class with Javanese-born Iyan Yasprianya, who offers yoga in the Ashtanga tradition in a sacred setting. Iyan is also a certified ayurvedic massage, reflexology and Indonesian massage therapist and Reiki master.
One absolute must while on Bali is the experience of one of their famous healing body treatments. The scent of temple incense and cempaka flower-infused massage oil induces a dreamlike state as the Balinese therapists give deep healing massage. In addition to the famed massages are special treatments such as a traditional Indonesian body scrub, like Mandilurlur (Javanese spice exfoliation, followed by a cool yogurt body mask) or a Balinese Boreh (ginger and clove wrap to soothe tired and sore muscles.) If you happen to be in Seminyak, you might try either of these treatments at the newly opened Prana Spa, which offers Yoga daily. Or, while on the north coast of Bali, try the Zen Body Holiday retreat center.
Visitors can get an inside view of Balinese culture by visiting temples, temple ceremonies and cremations. Processions with giant representations of Hindu deities, traditional gamalan music, legong and barong dance are all ways that the people of Bali make offerings to the gods. The Balinese are most welcoming to outsiders, and warmly invite us in to experience their culture. Simply respect and observe the local customs, including wearing a sarong, long sleeved shirt and sash around the waist while at the temples. Most of the Balinese are very willing to explain their traditions and help visitors to dress and act appropriately.
One of the traditional practices of the Balinese is the act of making offerings. Each morning, afternoon and evening, women and men place offerings, ranging from the most simple bit of cooked rice on a piece of banana leaf, to intricately woven palm leaf baskets full of colorful flowers, special leaves, incense and often a cracker or a bit of food. These offerings are placed nearly everywhere, whether on backyard temples, at the entryway to homes and shops, at restaurants and or even at bars. The scent of temple incense is everywhere. These offerings are made to the gods to show gratitude and humility, to honor the gifts that the Divine has bestowed upon them, and to ask for continued good fortune. Even all of the taxi drivers had offerings on their dashboards, and would often stop at strategic places on the roadside to make offerings and receive a blessing from a roadside priest, for safety in driving and good transportation. A meal is never taken without first offering some of it to the gods. There is a great essence of gratitude and the most deep trust in the protection and guidance of the Divine in Balinese culture.
Bali is a sacred and inviting environment in which yoga practitioners may engage fully, and deepen their practice. Whether devoting time to a private practice, or sampling the classes of the wonderful and diverse teachers on the island, time spent in Bali is sure to restore and rejuvenate the body, mind and heart.
moka@aloha.net or YogaWithAteeka.com